【皮草科普】皮草种类知多少

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 KOPENHAGEN FUR

PRIMARY TYPES OF FUR AND SIZES

 

Kopenhagen Fur has some of the highest standards in the fur industry with a unique sorting and grading system whichensures the best fur quality in the world. 

This document contains information regarding our primary fur types: mink, swakara, fox, sealskin and chinchilla.

哥本哈根皮草在某些领域达到行业的最高标准，凭借独一无二的分级和质量商标体系确保了产品的一流品质。以下几种是哥本哈根皮草拍卖行主要销售的皮草种类：水貂皮、斯瓦卡拉羊羔皮、狐狸皮、海豹皮、青紫蓝。

 

SKIN SIZES

 

水貂 MINK

 

示范皮张尺寸约17x60cm

 

Mink is one of the world’s most exclusive and sought-after fur materials. In spite of its soft and delicate nature the material is quite durable and this, along with the warmth of the fur, makes it the perfect choice for elegant winter wear. But mink can also be used for accessories, interior design and fur fashion: combining mink with other materials.(silk, cashmere, leather, wool etc.).

水貂皮是世界上品质最佳、流行度最广的毛皮面料之一。除了面料本身具有的柔软和精致的特性外，它还经久耐用。由于皮草的保暖特点，使之成为冬季优雅着装的最佳选择。水貂皮与其他面料（比如丝绸、羊绒、皮革、毛线等等）结合，可用于制作饰品，室内装饰和时装设计等用途。

 

Natural Mink Types

水貂皮基础种类

 

Quality scale 质量等级

（1）Purple 紫色等级——出自全球最顶尖毛皮养殖场的水貂皮，质地轻盈，质感丝滑， 拥有超常华丽短俏的毛针和及其密实丰满的底绒。

（2）Platinum 白金等级——皮张拥有美丽均匀的毛针和厚实丰满的底绒。

（3）Burgundy 酒红等级——皮张拥有均匀整齐的毛针和厚实丰满的底绒。

（4）Ivory 象牙白等级——皮张历经精挑细选，毛针和底绒和谐平衡。

 

Dye 染色

Mink can be dyed in all colours and we use Pantone references (TPX).

Light colours must be died on natural light skins, while you can use darker skins for darker colours.

水貂皮可以染成各种颜色，这里我们使用的是潘通色卡。

浅色通常染在纯天然颜色较浅的皮张上，深色可以使用纯天然颜色较深的皮张来染色。

 

 

 

斯瓦卡拉 SWAKARA 

 

示范皮张尺寸约22x40cm

 

Swakara is the name of a specific breed of karakul from Namibia. Significantly different to that of Central Asian karakul, the character and excellent standard of swakara can be found nowhere else in the world. This makes swakara pelts some of the most coveted fur in the world.

斯瓦卡拉是对生长在纳米比亚对卡拉库羔羊的称呼，该品种明显不同于中亚地区的卡拉库羊羔皮。世界其他地区无法培育出拥有如此特点和高品质的斯瓦卡拉，这使得斯瓦卡拉成为最受人青睐的皮草面料之一。

 

The significant feature of swakara is its curls, forming a surface tracery. The signature pattern of swakara is flat, silky and elegant. The soft and supple skin makes the material fit for almost any style, from skirt to jacket.

斯瓦卡拉的显著特点是它天然的卷毛形成表面不规则的花纹图案。斯瓦卡拉羊羔皮表面平整，柔滑美观，这种柔软的特性使得它适用于制作从裙子到外套到任意风格到服饰。

 

There are two ways to use swakara skins

有两种方式使用斯瓦卡拉

1.The rectangular areas are stitched together – the transition from one rectangle to another is visible.

2.Whole skins are stitched together – the result is a fluent transition from one pelt to another

1. 将皮张裁成不同的矩形缝合起来，矩形之间的变化非常显眼。

2. 将不同的整张的皮张缝合起来，皮张之间的变化非常流畅。

 

Quality scale 质量等级

（1）Purple 紫色等级

（2）Platinum 白金等级

（3）Burgundy 酒红等级

（4）Ivory 象牙白等级

 

Natural swakara colours 天然颜色

The natural colour palette of swakara consists of black, grey, white, brown and spotted, but it is possible to find over 200 different variations in tone. For example, one grey coloured swakara pelt can even feature over five natural tones.

斯瓦卡拉的天然颜色有黑色、灰色、白色、棕色和斑点花纹。但是在斯瓦卡拉上发现200多种色调变化也是有可能的。例如，一张灰色的斯瓦卡拉羊羔皮有5种自然色调的变化。

 

Swakara Natural Types

斯瓦卡拉基础种类

 

 

 

狐狸 FOX

 

示范皮张尺寸约20x75cm

 

Fox fur is a long-haired thick and dense fur. It comes in many types, with upwards of 20 different natural colours. Fox farmers raise both blue and silver foxes. The blue foxes are found naturally in a blue and a white variant. The silver foxes are found in many colour variations, from almost black to very light grey/white and from brown hues to red.

狐狸皮具有毛长和绒密的特点。狐狸皮有多种类型，按颜色划分则多达20种，包括深浅不同的黑色，红色，棕色和白色。现在狐狸养殖户培育出蓝狐和银狐。蓝狐皮自然状态下呈现的颜色在蓝色和白色之间变化。银狐皮的颜色在近乎黑和极浅的灰色（或者白色）之间变化，还有的银狐皮颜色在棕色调和红色之间变化。

 

Fox furs are longer and more easily recognizable than any other type of fur, and fox fur is therefore a treasured material for trimmings, accessories and fur fashion. A certain amount of natural shedding should be expected because of the length and thickness of the hair.

狐狸皮的毛针比其他品种的明显要长，非常容易辨认。因此狐狸皮是适合用于花边装饰、配饰设计以及皮草时尚的珍贵面料。受到毛针长度和厚度到影响，狐狸皮到毛针会存在少量的自然脱落现象。

 

Fox Natural Types

狐狸皮基础种类

 

 

Quality scale 质量等级

（1）Purple 紫色等级

（2）Platinum 白金等级

（3）Burgundy 酒红等级

（4）Ivory 象牙白等级

 

Dye 染色

Fox can be dyed in all colours and we use Pantone references (TPX).

Please note that lighter colours will not cover any black/dark hair. A light fox must be used for a unified colour result.

狐狸皮可以染成各种颜色，这里我们使用的是潘通色卡。

请注意浅色的染料无法掩盖住深色毛皮原来的颜色，要想达成理想的染色效果要选择染料和原皮颜色统一的皮草。

 

 

海豹 SEAL

 

示范皮张尺寸约40x90cm

 

Sealskin comes in different types, but the one commonly used for fashion is harp seal. This type can be easily identified by its short, even hair and its almost silky and lustrous surface. Sealskin has a flatter appearance compared to other types of fur, e.g. mink. Sealskin is very durable and offers great resistance to wind and rain.

海豹皮有许多不同的种类，时尚领域最常用的是格陵兰海豹皮。这种海豹皮的特点是短而齐的毛针和富有光泽的丝绸般的皮板。相比于其他种类的皮草比如水貂皮，海豹皮看起来更扁平。海豹皮非常耐用，抗风雨能力强。

 

Due to the natural colour variations on both ringed seal and harp seal, strategic pattern placement is required. When dyed in dark colours the surface variations are less visible.

因为斑纹海豹和格陵兰海豹天然颜色种类丰富，在使用时需要有意识地思考图案分布。如果将海豹皮染成深色，皮张表面的花纹变化就不会很明显了。

 

Quality scale 质量等级

A级——该级别的皮张为最好的皮张，没有或者仅有很少瑕疵。

B级——该级别的皮张有6-8处瑕疵，皮板表面也有少量瑕疵。

C级——该级别的皮张上留有疤痕或取皮时造成的破损。

D级——该级别的皮张约50%的面积都存在问题。

 

Dye 染色

Great Greenland dyes the skins themselves, as they have the expertise required to do so. Therefore, the skins. are only available in the colours offered at the auction.

大格陵兰公司掌握海豹皮染色的专业技艺，所有海豹皮的染色都是由该公司处理。因此，拍卖会仅销售已经经过染色处理的海豹皮。

 

 

Natural And Dyed Seal Types

海豹皮基础种类与可选颜色

See below for colours offered by Great Greenland.

Please note that not all colours are guaranteed at all auctions.

详情请见以下由大格陵兰公司提供的海豹皮花色图，但是哥本哈根皮草拍卖行无法保证所有花色的海豹皮都能供应。

 

 

 

青紫兰 CHINCHILLA

 

示范皮张尺寸约12x30cm

 

Chinchilla fur is a soft and dense fur, almost silky to the touch. Due to the fur’s look and feel, chinchilla furs are regarded as one of the most exclusive materials available. Most chinchillas have a beautiful blue-grey colour, darkest on the back shading to a lighter grey on the sides. However, several other colours are available such as white, ebony, violet and sapphire.

青紫蓝毛针柔软绒密，手感光滑，被认为是少有的奢华面料之一。大部分青紫兰的颜色都是漂亮的青灰色，背面颜色较深，两边颜色逐渐变浅。此外，青紫兰也有其他几种颜色，包括黑丝绒色，白色，乌木色，紫罗兰色和蓝宝石色。

 

The fur is very warm, despite being one of the lightest. However it’s a very delicate fur – it needs much care and is not resistant to damp weather.

尽管这种面料体积轻盈，但是保暖性很强。由于这是一种精致的面料，因此需要特别爱护，尤其需要注意潮湿天气时的防护。

 

Chinchilla Natural Types

青紫兰基础种类

 

Quality scale 质量等级

（1）Purple 紫色等级

（2）Platinum 白金等级

（3）Burgundy 酒红等级

（4）Ivory 象牙白等级

 

Dye 染色

Chinchilla can be dyed in all colours and we use Pantone references (TPX).

Light colours must be died on natural light skins, while you can use darker skins for darker colours.

青紫蓝皮可以染成各种颜色，这里我们使用的是潘通色卡。

要获得浅色的皮张通常用天然色浅的皮张来进行染色，要获得深色的皮张则可以用天然色较深的皮张进行染色。

 

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